Guidebook for Valladolid
Food Scene
This pleasant restaurant and bar is an evening hot spot and is very close to la Casita. Outside tables are especially fun for people watching on the Calzada de los Frailes. Also live music on weekend...
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Cafeina
This pleasant restaurant and bar is an evening hot spot and is very close to la Casita. Outside tables are especially fun for people watching on the Calzada de los Frailes. Also live music on weekend...
This is a very pretty, intimate restaurant with good food and drinks on Candelaria Park. The wood-fired oven means tasty pizza, and I personally love their pasta agli olio. They also make a nice salad. Oh, and there are Italian wines on the wine list, which is great. Dinners only.
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Casa Italia
This is a very pretty, intimate restaurant with good food and drinks on Candelaria Park. The wood-fired oven means tasty pizza, and I personally love their pasta agli olio. They also make a nice salad. Oh, and there are Italian wines on the wine list, which is great. Dinners only.
La Selva
179C C. 42Delicous Yucateca food at good price...friendly place....open at night after 17:00.
An enjoyable place with live music and art galore.....open at night starting at 17:00. This is a happening spot and a feast for the eyes. It also has a store with artsy items made locally. If you like Frida, you will love Conato.
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Conato
An enjoyable place with live music and art galore.....open at night starting at 17:00. This is a happening spot and a feast for the eyes. It also has a store with artsy items made locally. If you like Frida, you will love Conato.
This restaurant, owned by locals, is known for its wood-fired pizza and local menu and is open from 8 a.m.-midnight. There is live music some nights. It also a pool...bring your swimsuit ;^)
Hotel Restaurante Casa San Juan
This restaurant, owned by locals, is known for its wood-fired pizza and local menu and is open from 8 a.m.-midnight. There is live music some nights. It also a pool...bring your swimsuit ;^)
Just beside the beautiful convent of San Bernardino de Siena, you can enjoy different delicious juices and healthy food . The morning bread, croissants and cookies are very tasty... Yerbabuena is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and serves wine and beer.
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Yerbabuena del sisal
217 C. 54aJust beside the beautiful convent of San Bernardino de Siena, you can enjoy different delicious juices and healthy food . The morning bread, croissants and cookies are very tasty... Yerbabuena is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and serves wine and beer.
This restaurant is owned by Federica, originally from Italy, but long-lived in Mexico. Her mom, "la nonna" Tiziana, makes fresh pasta in the kitchen. Along with a daily fresh menu, L'Osteria serves alcohol and has a wonderful back patio with a great view to the sky and the church tower. Often this restaurant will have live music.
L'Osteria della 43
197 C. 43This restaurant is owned by Federica, originally from Italy, but long-lived in Mexico. Her mom, "la nonna" Tiziana, makes fresh pasta in the kitchen. Along with a daily fresh menu, L'Osteria serves alcohol and has a wonderful back patio with a great view to the sky and the church tower. Often this restaurant will have live music.
After being away from Valladolid, I feel like I have come home once I have eaten panuchos at Oasis. If you are looking for local flavor and you don't mind a stained table cloth, Oasis is the place to go. It has a large and varied menu of regional food that is economically priced and includes beer and alcohol. The botanas (small plates) that it serves at lunchtime when you order a drink are enough to be a meal. Lunch and dinner.
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Restaurant & Pizzeria Oasis
After being away from Valladolid, I feel like I have come home once I have eaten panuchos at Oasis. If you are looking for local flavor and you don't mind a stained table cloth, Oasis is the place to go. It has a large and varied menu of regional food that is economically priced and includes beer and alcohol. The botanas (small plates) that it serves at lunchtime when you order a drink are enough to be a meal. Lunch and dinner.
Last I checked, Los Arrecifes is a lunch place only and, in my opinion, serves the best seafood in town plus beer and wine.
Restaurante Los Arrecifes
85 A Calle 41Last I checked, Los Arrecifes is a lunch place only and, in my opinion, serves the best seafood in town plus beer and wine.
This food cart at the corner of Calle 41 and Calle 44 in Valladolid Centro sells the best Cochinita Pibil (slow roasted pork) in town. Hang out with the crowd that gathers round this popular spot, open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.-ish, or when the food's gone. Buy your cochinita in a torta (sandwich roll) or in polcanes--football shaped corn masa croquettes stuffed with black beans, sliced open with the cochinita pibil scooped on top. Dress your eats as you like with onions and salsa picante and wash everything down with a soft drink that they also sell. No kidding: this is a hot spot. You can even buy the cochinita by weight to carry back to the casita if you like. (Note: IN VALLA NOT IN PLAYA)
El Tigrillo
This food cart at the corner of Calle 41 and Calle 44 in Valladolid Centro sells the best Cochinita Pibil (slow roasted pork) in town. Hang out with the crowd that gathers round this popular spot, open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.-ish, or when the food's gone. Buy your cochinita in a torta (sandwich roll) or in polcanes--football shaped corn masa croquettes stuffed with black beans, sliced open with the cochinita pibil scooped on top. Dress your eats as you like with onions and salsa picante and wash everything down with a soft drink that they also sell. No kidding: this is a hot spot. You can even buy the cochinita by weight to carry back to the casita if you like. (Note: IN VALLA NOT IN PLAYA)
We love our friends Pablo and Naida and Luba at Wabi Gelato who are just a few doors away from MUREM on Calle 41. Their gelato is very delicious, especially on a hot day. The palette of flavors is creative and lively and there are always milk and milk-free options. Wabi Gelato has now opened a second location on Parque Candelaria, which includes tables and a larger offering of edibles to enjoy. Parque Candelaria is a lovely place to hang out, and the Virgin of Candelaria, who lives in the church that is on one side of the park, is the Patroness of Valladolid.
Wabi Gelato
196 C. 41We love our friends Pablo and Naida and Luba at Wabi Gelato who are just a few doors away from MUREM on Calle 41. Their gelato is very delicious, especially on a hot day. The palette of flavors is creative and lively and there are always milk and milk-free options. Wabi Gelato has now opened a second location on Parque Candelaria, which includes tables and a larger offering of edibles to enjoy. Parque Candelaria is a lovely place to hang out, and the Virgin of Candelaria, who lives in the church that is on one side of the park, is the Patroness of Valladolid.
Drinks & Nightlife
Líbranos del Mal
calle 39 between calle 40 and calle 38
Calle 40 across the street from Casa de los Venados, half a block from the parque principal. This really is a bar and restaurant. What is the coolest thing to do here is to climb up to the top of the building where there are couches and tables in the open air. The views of the city at night are really great. Second level on the front of the building also has outside seating, which is a little quieter and you're not closed in.
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Condesa Cocina-Bar
Calle 40 across the street from Casa de los Venados, half a block from the parque principal. This really is a bar and restaurant. What is the coolest thing to do here is to climb up to the top of the building where there are couches and tables in the open air. The views of the city at night are really great. Second level on the front of the building also has outside seating, which is a little quieter and you're not closed in.
Ok, I'm going to confess, I've never been inside La Joyita because they say that "good" women don't go into cantinas in Mexico. But La Joyita is a long-standing tradition here that I pass it every day because it is near the museum. It's got those fun swinging doors that you push to enter (and leave) a bar like in old western movies. The music is good, and sometimes live. The people are always laughing and singing. I see botana (snack) plates on the tables as I longingly walk by. It is not a dingy place, which cantinas can sometimes be. I see people who are obviously not from here inside--men and women. One of these days I'm going to enter...but for now I am too chicken.
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La Joyita Cantina
193B C. 41Ok, I'm going to confess, I've never been inside La Joyita because they say that "good" women don't go into cantinas in Mexico. But La Joyita is a long-standing tradition here that I pass it every day because it is near the museum. It's got those fun swinging doors that you push to enter (and leave) a bar like in old western movies. The music is good, and sometimes live. The people are always laughing and singing. I see botana (snack) plates on the tables as I longingly walk by. It is not a dingy place, which cantinas can sometimes be. I see people who are obviously not from here inside--men and women. One of these days I'm going to enter...but for now I am too chicken.
Arts & Culture
The museum you are supporting by staying at the Casita, MUREM, is located just 3/4 block from the central park. Inside we display a selection of traditional, indigenous, and contemporary ethnic costumes from throughout Mexico. You are welcome to tour on your own, or walk through with a staff member. We have the museum to collect, preserve, and display beautiful and unique clothing woven, sewn, embroidered, and beaded by communities that are becoming more and more connected with the greater world. In a generation or two or three, traditions will shift and quite possibly these clothes will no longer be made for daily or ceremonial use. Free entrance for all Casita guests.
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Museo de Ropa Etnica de Mexico - Murem
202A Calle 49AThe museum you are supporting by staying at the Casita, MUREM, is located just 3/4 block from the central park. Inside we display a selection of traditional, indigenous, and contemporary ethnic costumes from throughout Mexico. You are welcome to tour on your own, or walk through with a staff member. We have the museum to collect, preserve, and display beautiful and unique clothing woven, sewn, embroidered, and beaded by communities that are becoming more and more connected with the greater world. In a generation or two or three, traditions will shift and quite possibly these clothes will no longer be made for daily or ceremonial use. Free entrance for all Casita guests.
This private home of John and Dorianne Venator, just off the main square, offers a double delight to visitors. The house features 3000+ colorful examples of Mexican Folk Art from throughout the country. Many of the pieces are special commissions. You will tour a 400 year old casona that has been restored to preserve the old structure wherever possible and blends in contemporary architecture and design. It's quite lovely and especially interesting because this is a home and the rooms that you walk through are used by the family and their dog Mia. They used to give tours at 10 a.m. only, but with increased attendance, the owners are allowing a later tour or two.
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Casa de los Venados
This private home of John and Dorianne Venator, just off the main square, offers a double delight to visitors. The house features 3000+ colorful examples of Mexican Folk Art from throughout the country. Many of the pieces are special commissions. You will tour a 400 year old casona that has been restored to preserve the old structure wherever possible and blends in contemporary architecture and design. It's quite lovely and especially interesting because this is a home and the rooms that you walk through are used by the family and their dog Mia. They used to give tours at 10 a.m. only, but with increased attendance, the owners are allowing a later tour or two.
Essentials
We have lots of discussions about which supermarket is best in town. Soriana, on Calle 39 between Calles 48 and 50, is the supermarket closest to the Casita. I think it still has the best prices and selection of produce, but you have to be there on the right days. Like Saturdays, Mondays, and Wednesdays are good... But they've been remodeling because of the competition, so the old Soriana is going through a bit of a personality change. It's still the closest place for everything you need, including fresh fruits and vegetables, a bakery and deli counter, meats, and nonfood things you find in supermarkets. Soriana has a parking lot and 2 atms. Santander is cheaper than HSBC for $.
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Soriana Express - Valladolid
We have lots of discussions about which supermarket is best in town. Soriana, on Calle 39 between Calles 48 and 50, is the supermarket closest to the Casita. I think it still has the best prices and selection of produce, but you have to be there on the right days. Like Saturdays, Mondays, and Wednesdays are good... But they've been remodeling because of the competition, so the old Soriana is going through a bit of a personality change. It's still the closest place for everything you need, including fresh fruits and vegetables, a bakery and deli counter, meats, and nonfood things you find in supermarkets. Soriana has a parking lot and 2 atms. Santander is cheaper than HSBC for $.
The Valladolid municipal market s a charming market located about 10 blocks from the Casita. It has a variety of stalls filled with things for you to eat, including foods specific to the area and handmade gifts. The market starts humming around 8 a.m., slows down around 1 p.m., and is pretty much closed by 3 p.m. If you like to eat at markets there are stalls for eating here as well.
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Mercado Municipal
#0 C. 32The Valladolid municipal market s a charming market located about 10 blocks from the Casita. It has a variety of stalls filled with things for you to eat, including foods specific to the area and handmade gifts. The market starts humming around 8 a.m., slows down around 1 p.m., and is pretty much closed by 3 p.m. If you like to eat at markets there are stalls for eating here as well.
Sightseeing
One of five colonial churches in Valladolid. The virgin of Candelaria is the town's patron saint. There is great celebration about her if you are in town on or around her feast day (February 2). She is carried in processions to visit the other churches in town.
The colonial churches in Valladolid are all worth visiting for their simplicity and beauty. Actually, the colonial churches in the entire region are fascinating.
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Iglesia de la Candelaria
205 C. 35One of five colonial churches in Valladolid. The virgin of Candelaria is the town's patron saint. There is great celebration about her if you are in town on or around her feast day (February 2). She is carried in processions to visit the other churches in town.
The colonial churches in Valladolid are all worth visiting for their simplicity and beauty. Actually, the colonial churches in the entire region are fascinating.
San Bernardino is a very old former Franciscan monastery. It is the focal point of Sisal park and Weds-Sun in the evening there are projections on the outside of this building that tell the story of Valladolid and the region. 9:00 in English, 9:20 in Spanish.
Inside the church is a restored "retablo," a carved wood splendor with niches for saints and virgins. For a fee you can also enter the ex-convento and explore the space. There is a museum which has photos of what scuba divers discovered in the cenote below the church.
Outside the church people gather on and around the green.
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Convent de San Bernardino de Siena
San Bernardino is a very old former Franciscan monastery. It is the focal point of Sisal park and Weds-Sun in the evening there are projections on the outside of this building that tell the story of Valladolid and the region. 9:00 in English, 9:20 in Spanish.
Inside the church is a restored "retablo," a carved wood splendor with niches for saints and virgins. For a fee you can also enter the ex-convento and explore the space. There is a museum which has photos of what scuba divers discovered in the cenote below the church.
Outside the church people gather on and around the green.
This street is just a half block from the Casita. It leads you down to the neighborhood park and the ex-convento San Bernardino. Lined with colonial buildings, the Calzada is the prettiest street in Valladolid and truly a hot spot with restaurants and bars, tables on the sidewalk, and chi chi stores. It is closed off to vehicle traffic on Friday and Saturday evenings.
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Calzada de los Frailes
201D Calz. de Los FrailesThis street is just a half block from the Casita. It leads you down to the neighborhood park and the ex-convento San Bernardino. Lined with colonial buildings, the Calzada is the prettiest street in Valladolid and truly a hot spot with restaurants and bars, tables on the sidewalk, and chi chi stores. It is closed off to vehicle traffic on Friday and Saturday evenings.
This is Valladolid's Central Park. Around it you will find the town's main church, the government building, the Centro Artesenal (you can buy directly from the women from the villages selling the goods that they make), + a nice selection of bars and restaurants.
The lovely park has a central fountain featuring the "Mestiza" at its center. Old iron benches and the famous "Tu y Yo" (You and Me) chairs where you can sit and look longingly into the eyes of your loved one ;^) are to be enjoyed.
Marquesitas, coconut ice cream, roasted corn slathered with mayonnaise are just some of the food stands.
Sunday night music and dancing in the park are a generations-old tradition, 7:30-8ish p.m.
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Parque Principal Francisco Canton Rosado
204A C. 41This is Valladolid's Central Park. Around it you will find the town's main church, the government building, the Centro Artesenal (you can buy directly from the women from the villages selling the goods that they make), + a nice selection of bars and restaurants.
The lovely park has a central fountain featuring the "Mestiza" at its center. Old iron benches and the famous "Tu y Yo" (You and Me) chairs where you can sit and look longingly into the eyes of your loved one ;^) are to be enjoyed.
Marquesitas, coconut ice cream, roasted corn slathered with mayonnaise are just some of the food stands.
Sunday night music and dancing in the park are a generations-old tradition, 7:30-8ish p.m.
Parks & Nature
This village offers the interesting blend of research and tourism. A group of biologists have been researching the spider monkeys here for more than 20 years. They work with the community in monitoring the monkey population (there are also howler monkeys) and the people of the town offer tours through the habitat as an income generator.
You can also rent canoes and paddle out onto the laguna. Lakes are rare things in the Peninsula. There is zipline fun for thrill seekers...a restaurant if reservations are made in advance, and some handmade things for sale.
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Punta Laguna
Quintana Roo Nuevo Durango - CobaThis village offers the interesting blend of research and tourism. A group of biologists have been researching the spider monkeys here for more than 20 years. They work with the community in monitoring the monkey population (there are also howler monkeys) and the people of the town offer tours through the habitat as an income generator.
You can also rent canoes and paddle out onto the laguna. Lakes are rare things in the Peninsula. There is zipline fun for thrill seekers...a restaurant if reservations are made in advance, and some handmade things for sale.
Are you a birder? If you are, you should consider contacting Ismael, Mike, or Martha of the Yucatan Jay group out of Xocen. They know everything about birds in the region and can take you to some of their favorite places. Don't tell them I told you this, but these guys are really flexible, out of the box thinkers. If you have an idea of how you might like to explore the feathered world here, or even other topics, they would be open to helping make that happen. I'm not really into birds (though I love pelicans and think that a trip to El Cuyo will make you happy if you want to see birds that live by the water) but I have gone on walkabout with Ismael in the woods of Xocen and it was great.
Yucatan Jay Expeditions
Are you a birder? If you are, you should consider contacting Ismael, Mike, or Martha of the Yucatan Jay group out of Xocen. They know everything about birds in the region and can take you to some of their favorite places. Don't tell them I told you this, but these guys are really flexible, out of the box thinkers. If you have an idea of how you might like to explore the feathered world here, or even other topics, they would be open to helping make that happen. I'm not really into birds (though I love pelicans and think that a trip to El Cuyo will make you happy if you want to see birds that live by the water) but I have gone on walkabout with Ismael in the woods of Xocen and it was great.
Everything Else
El Cuyo was a small fishing village on the Gulf coast. It used to be my secret getaway until some kite surfers from Playa del Carmen found it. Now it is more on the tourist map, but still a bit far away and forgotten. El Cuyo has a few streets with a few restaurants and a few houses that can be rented on the water. The beach is wide and of white sand, though the sargasso problem may also be affecting it these days. The water is very clean and clear and close to the Caribbean blue in color. The birds are amazing here and include flamingos who nest in the estuary.
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El Cuyo
El Cuyo was a small fishing village on the Gulf coast. It used to be my secret getaway until some kite surfers from Playa del Carmen found it. Now it is more on the tourist map, but still a bit far away and forgotten. El Cuyo has a few streets with a few restaurants and a few houses that can be rented on the water. The beach is wide and of white sand, though the sargasso problem may also be affecting it these days. The water is very clean and clear and close to the Caribbean blue in color. The birds are amazing here and include flamingos who nest in the estuary.